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ODYSSEY

By Terry Zarikian

SAVOR THE SOUL OF SIFNOS WHILE ON A CULINARY JOURNEY EXPLORING GREECE’S HIDDEN GEM FOR FOOD LOVERS.

This summer, skip the crowded streets of Mykonos and the tourist-heavy paths of Santorini, and instead set your sights on Sifnos, a lesser-known Greek island that’s quietly earning a reputation as a culinary haven. Just a two-and-a-half-hour ferry ride from Athens, Sifnos offers an authentic taste of Greece without the bustling crowds. With its rich history, unspoiled landscapes, and commitment to preserving its low-key charm, Sifnos is a must-visit destination for food lovers looking to expand their horizons.

Photos by Terry Zarikian

Sifnos is a small island in the Cyclades, nestled between Serifos and Milos, west of Delos and Paros. Its permanent population hovers around 2,777, and without an airport, it remains delightfully exclusive—especially for well-to-do Greeks and those in the know. The island has been inhabited since at least 4000 BCE, and its culinary traditions are as deeply rooted as its history. But what truly sets Sifnos apart is its evolving food scene, where local chefs, influenced by global cuisine, transform fresh, foraged ingredients into dishes that are both innovative and true to the island’s heritage.

Through my friend Argiro Barbarigou, a renowned Greek chef, I was introduced to Giorgos Samoilis, a local culinary talent who has helped shape the island’s gastronomic landscape. Samoilis, the original creator of the menu at Omega-3, now runs two of Sifnos’ best restaurants: Cantina and Pelicanos. Cantina, a zero-waste sustainable restaurant, is located in Seralia, a small bay by Kastro, a quaint town built on a steep hill along Sifnos’ eastern coast. Here, Samoilis crafts authentic Sifnian dishes like Sifnos Fava crepe with seaweed, smoked beetroot, sundried tomatoes, island capers, purslane, and rocket chimichurri. His Sifnos Beef Carpaccio with local manouri cheese and celery pesto, and Scorpina fish charcoal-grilled with Bourdeto sauce, are must-tries for anyone visiting the island.

Pelicanos, situated on Faros Beach, offers a relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Samoilis’ creativity shines through in every dish, whether you’re indulging in his signature creations or attending a special pop-up like “URCHIN,” a 10-course Omakase that delighted diners this past July. From Snake Cucumber with Tuna “Tare Tare” and urchin to Robata Sifnian Lamb cooked on olive coal and Cherry Miso, every bite at Pelicanos is a testament to Samoilis’ culinary genius.

For those seeking more upscale dining experiences, Hotel NÓS is worth a visit. Although the service might lean towards the leisurely side, the food and wine selection make the wait worthwhile. The hotel’s restaurant offers a well-curated list of wines not found elsewhere, like the Kitma Biblia Chora Biblinos Rosé. Paired with a meal that might take several hours, this is the place to slow down and truly savor your time on Sifnos. Another notable spot for taking in the breathtaking landscape over regional bites is Bostani Bar & Restaurant at the Verina Astra Hotel, Here, the restaurant’s stunning views of the Aegean Sea are almost as spectacular as the food.

Finally, Omega-3, located right on the sandy beach of Platis Gialos, offers an unparalleled dining experience. The restaurant’s focus on simplicity allows the natural flavors of Sifnos to shine. Dishes like Island Steamed Greens with lemon and EVOO, Octopus Tentacles with caviar made from tapioca, and Horse Mackerel with verjuice and chiles highlight the island’s rich culinary heritage. Each bite is a reminder of why Sifnos deserves to be on every food lover’s map.

So, if you’re planning a trip to Greece, consider bypassing the usual suspects. Instead, head to Sifnos, where the food is as authentic as the island’s unspoiled charm. Here, you’ll find a culinary experience that’s as enriching as the island’s history—one that will make your summer getaway truly unforgettable.